Phnom Penh
I’ve threatened long enough to tell about our trip to Cambodia from 08/29-09/2/2003, so–belatedly– here goes, and it’s definitely out of chronological order. We visited Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. back in late August, early September.
For us, the highpoints around Phnom Penh were the loathsome Khmer Rouge killing fields, the cultural and historical sites in the city, and glimpses of daily life.
The streets of Phnom Penh weave among buildings that range from modern to dilapidated and are teeming with motorcycles, tuk-tuks, tall cyclos, Japanese cars and pickups. The central market swarms with activity, and even amid visible poverty, you get the feeling of hope for the future.
Two of our friends in Bangkok do business in Phnom Penh. They set us up with a driver (whose education one of them is helping support) who made sure we got a complete tour. We also spent some time with a fellow student from Ban Phe, Tim Grimstone, who is teaching English in P/P.
There is considerable development along the riverfront with an esplanade that overlooks the merging of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. Here, modern cafes and coffee bars provide respite and great views for foreign diplomatic and NGO types and tourists like us. Behind this narrow block are smaller businesses, one of which Tim introduced us to. Friends-The Restaurant is run by teenage men and women drawn from the homeless community and trained in English and the food service business. It was a neat, optimistic place with great kids serving good food. Nearby city sites included the following interesting places: the National Museum, the Royal Palace, and the Silver Pagoda with its silver floor and elegant grounds.
But, you are never far from reminders of the dark years of Pol Pot’s regime of terror. Ira has written some of his impressions of this period in the Cambodia Journal.
Siem Reap
We were surely ready to leave Phnom Penh when we caught the plane to Siem Reap, where during the Angkor Period from the 9th to the 15th century “the Khmer empire reached its greatest territorial limit and its apogee in cultural and artistic achievements.” (reference on request). The national Angkor Archaeological Park is enormous with dozens of temple ruins and monuments.
We spent lots of time in Angkor Wat, “the city which is a temple” and got up at dawn one morning to watch dawn break over it. We visited many other temples in various states of rescue from the jungle. Had it not been for the enthusiastic prodding of our driver, we might have given in to temple fatigue. But we didn’t and were glad to see each one of them. One favorite was the site Ta Phrohm, a location for part of the movie, Tomb Raiders I. Have a look at the pictures. Judy and I hope to go back one day and see the whole area again.
We also drove out to Lake Tonle Sap and took a boat tour. During the rainy season, the Mekong actually reverses course and fill this lake, which after the rainy season washes back into the Mekong.
Tags: Cambodia